Note 1: There are 2 large “Dimples” in the center of each hull. They are created by the oarlock sockets pressing against the hull when in the folded position. On the Green & Aluminum Boats, they’re lighter in color. This is normal and in no way affects the hull’s strength.
The first time you open your new Porta-Bote, you will find it is a little “stiff” – like a new pair of shoes. This is normal. After several openings the living hinge will ease up and be easier to open. Also, polypropylene stiffens when it becomes cold. This, too, is normal. If your Porta-Bote is delivered when the weather is cold, keep the hull in a warm place for 24 hours or until it reaches room temperature. It will then open more easily.
Note 2: OUTBOARD PLACEMENT
Place your gas outboard on the transom so it cannot touch the rear of the boat when under power. Probably the 3rd or 4th hole from the bottom, depending on the outboard. If the shaft is allowed to press against the rear of the boat for a long period of time, it could eventually wear a hole in this area and also harm you outboard shaft.
Now, Lets get Started
1- Open hull once so that the “sides” are exposed.
2- While standing on the “lower” side of the hull, reach down and pull open the “higher” side.
3- Place one end of the 2 STEP BOAT OPENER against the top tube of the side OPPOSITE you. Place the curved hook cutout against the side of tube nearest you. (See picture for approximate placement in the hull.
4- Use your leg to push away one side of hull until it’s far enough away to place other end of opener against the hull tube on opposite side.
Center & Rear seats are identical. Insert the center seat into the seat bracket on the opposite side of the hull. If you turn over a seat you will see several adjutment holes as shown. So, if necessary, these will allow you to adjust placing the stainless steel side upports to the bottom of each side of the hull so they touch the bottom sides correctly. Make sure the stainless steel center seat support is off TO THE SIDE when doing this as shown. Insert the end of seat nearest to you into the seat bracket.
6– Line up hole at end of the seat with hole in seat bracket nearest you. Insert stainless steel locking pin as shown. Squeeze pin and twist as you turn. Now, Insert pin in other side of seat.
7- From outside boat, push the steel center seat support into center seam as shown. If it is very tight, use the end of the boat opener to push it into place while you lift the side of the boat, slightly. Don’t do this when in boat.
8- Each side of the transom is now ready to be swung out toward the rear of the hull. When you do this, lift both sections slightly so they rotate more easily. NOTE: WHEN YOU CLOSE YOUR BOAT: First remove the rear seat. Then rotate the sides of the transom to their respective sides of the hull. Again…lift both sections slightly so they rotate more easily. Make sure the transom panels are snug against the sides before folding the boat.
9- As you rotate both sections together, make sure the motor mount is in the “up position” as shown. This part will flip over the rear bladder when the transom is completely installed.
NOTE 1: The aluminum “stiffening arms” will interlock as they swing toward the rear of the boat. NOTE 2: Before you slide the bolts INSERT THE REAR SEAT then slide each of the bolts toward the center of the transom as far as they will go.
10- This shows what the transom looks like when both side are placed together.
11– Insert each stainless steel rod through the upper and lower holes.
12- Place optional bow bladder on bow as shown. Remove covers from both tapes. Install the optional bowcap by carefully placing it over the bow bladder so it also covers the end of the tubes (see picture). Press the 2 pieces together so the bowcap adheres to the tapes on the bow bladder. Let cure for a few hours for a permanent installation.
Stretch bungee cords and insert each hook into hole. If no hole, drill a 1/4″ hole.
Never stand on bowcap or seats when entering or leaving the boat.
13- Boat shown fully assembled (no bowcap). Motor mount is in the “down”position overlapping plastic bladder.
A– When 3 people are seated in a “3-4 seat model” – Only one person should sit on each seat for best performance and
stability. Always sit in the center of the seat for best balance.
B– When 2 people are seated in a “3-4 seat model” – One person should sit on rear seat and one person on center seat.
Always sit in the center of the seat for best balance.
C– Maximum Person Weight Per Seat: 300 lbs. (137kg) – Maximum total weight per seat: 600 lbs. (272kg)
D– NEVER REMOVE ANY SEAT WHEN AFLOAT IN THE BOAT. THEY ACT AS STABILIZERS.
U.S. Coast Guard Suggested Maximum Capacity Specifications + MANUFACTURER’S OUTBOARD ENGINE MAX WEIGHT LIMIT
14’ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 5 persons, 807 lbs. (367 kg) Max Engine Weight: 89 lbs. (40kg)
12’ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 4 persons, 670 lbs. (305 kg) Max Engine Weight: 56 lbs. (25kg)
10’ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 3 persons, 585 Ibs. (266 kg) Max Engine Weight: 56 lbs. (25kg)
08’ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 3 persons. 445 Ibs. (202 kg) Max Engine Weight: 56 lbs. (25kg)
NOTE: Transom will flex when an outboard is attached. This is NORMAL. It will immediately stiffen when under power.
1- SEAT SUPPORTS: Make sure each seat support is firmly aligned over the seam of the hull before sitting on any seat.
Never sit or stand on the optional “bow cover”.
2- SEATING BALANCE: Always SIT on the rear seat when installing or starting outboard. Never stand in the area between the rear seat and the transom during motor installation. Keep your boat properly balanced at all times. Only one person may sit on the seat nearest the outboard while it is being installed or started. Otherwise you could lose your balance. Always sit in the center
of any seat for better balance.
2a- ROWING: When one person is rowing in the “2 seat model”, sit on the rear seat for better balance.
3- MAINTENANCE: Your Porta-Bote’s copolymer polypropylene hull is not adversely affected by salt water. It will come clean with soap (Bon Ami or Simple Green) and water. At least once a month during the season, apply “Armorall” or similar plastic protectant to the outer sides and bottom (the part that touches the water) of the hull and tubing and plastic seats and transom. If boating in salt water, always rinse all metal fittings with fresh water. If your boat will be stored so it Is constantly exposed week after week to the UV rays of the sun, protect it with a suitable light covered tarp or cover.
3a- DON’T continuously drag your boat over sand or gravel. Over the years, it will eventually wear the hull material.
4- GAS OUTBOARD INSTALLATION: The outboard must be installed so that the shaft has the pin inserted in the third hole from the bottom. The engine shaft should not be allowed to touch the edge of the hull, especially when underway.
RECOMMENDED SHAFT LENGTH: 15 inches – “SHORT SHAFT” FOR BEST PERFORMANCE
4a- Always secure your outboard to the rear seat with a safety chain or bicycle chain to prevent it from accidentally slipping off if the motor clamps should loosen due to vibration. Check the tightness of the transom wing nuts at regular intervals.
4b- Disregard the 2 pre-drilled holes in the motormount. They are to be used when attaching the “sail rudder”.
5- ELECTRIC OUTBOARD RECOMMENDATIONS: Porta-Bote will accept ANY SIZE ELECTRIC OUTBOARD when it is installed on the rear Transom/Motormount or on the optional Porta-Deck Motor Mount. Minimum shaft length is 30”. If installing an electric motor on the optional Bow Trolling Mount, maximum power is “30 pound thrust”. Minimum shaft length is 30”.
6- “FLEXING”: when you step on the “floor” of your boat, you will notice a certain amount of flexing in the “floor’. This is normal. Also, when the hull begins to “plane”, the sides will flex out and the floor bottom will flex “down”. This, too, is normal. This “flexing action” actually absorbs and cushions much of the impact of strong waves that might capsize an ordinary rigid hulled craft. The transom will flex, also. However, if one or both of the sides of the hull begin to flex or deform “abnormally”, you are traveling beyond the “MAXIMUM SPEED CAPABILITY” of the hull. Immediately reduce engine rpm. This flexing will stop and you will find you are traveling at almost the same speed, comfortably. (NOTE: No matter how large an outboard you install, your Porta-Bote hull cannot go any faster than its “MAXIMUM HULL SPEED”. It will just start to flex abnormally.) Never try to make a sudden “sharp turn” when traveling at high speeds in this or any boat.
7- READ CAREFULLY: If an accident occurs and your boat should fill with water, immediately shut oft the outboard. Evacuate and hang on to the boat It will remain afloat. Never go out in any boat unless each occupant is wearing a Coast Guard approved life vest and you have plenty of line (rope).
8- WATER IN SEAMS? After a short period of time, you may notice some water in the seams. This is probably the result of spray from waves or the outboard propeller or rowing action, condensation, etc. To check this out, come to a complete stop. Take an absorbent towel or sponge and dry the wet area. Wait one or two minutes. If this area remains dry, your hull doesn’t leak. Also, the foam gasket seal located at the bottom of the membrane will absorb a small amount of water which has come in from outside sources. When the hull flexes, this water will “squeeze out” and appear at the bottom of the hull near the transom. This is normal.