HOW TO OPEN YOUR PORTA-BOTE GENESIS SERIES

 

Note 1: There are 2 large “Dimples” in the center of each hull. They are created by the oarlock sockets pressing against the hull when in the folded position. On the Green & Aluminum Boats, they’re lighter in color. This is normal and in no way affects the hull’s strength.

The first time you open your new Porta-Bote, you will find it is a little “stiff” – like a new pair of shoes. This is normal. After several openings the living hinge will ease up and be easier to open. Also, polypropylene stiffens when it becomes cold. This, too, is normal. If your Porta-Bote is delivered when the weather is cold, keep the hull in a warm place for 24 hours or until it reaches room temperature. It will then open more easily.

Note 2:  IMPORTANT –  OUTBOARD PLACEMENT
Place your gas outboard on the transom so it cannot touch the rear of the boat when under power. Probably the 3rd or 4th hole from the bottom, depending on the outboard. If the shaft is allowed to press against the rear of the boat for a long period of time,  it could eventually wear a hole in this area and also harm you outboard shaft.

                                              Now, Lets get Started


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Open hull once so that the “sides” are exposed.

2- While standing on the “lower” side of the hull, reach down and pull open the “higher” side.

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3- Place one end of the 2 STEP BOAT OPENER against the top tube of the side OPPOSITE you. Place the curved hook cutout against the side of tube nearest you. (See picture for approximate placement in the hull.

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4- Use your leg to push away one side of hull until it’s far enough away to place other end of opener against the hull tube on opposite side.

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Center & Rear seats are identical except for the placement of metal side supports under seats. The side supports on center seat are attached under seat closest to the center of seat. On the rear seat they are attached closest to the edge.

5- Insert center seat into the seat bracket on opposite side of hull. Remember – Side supports on center seat are attached under seat closer to the center of seat. Make sure the stainless steel center seat support is off  TO THE SIDE as shown. Insert end of seat nearest to you into seat bracket.

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6- Line up hole at end of the seat with hole in seat bracket nearest you. Insert stainless steel locking pin as shown. Squeeze pin and twist as you turn. Now, Insert pin in other side of seat.

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7- From outside boat, push the steel center seat support into center seam as shown. If it is very tight, use the end of the boat opener to push it into place while you lift the side of the boat, slightly. Don’t do this when in boat.

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8-- Install the remaining seat(s) just as before. Make sure all seat supports are in place. Side supports will be a little loose on bottom. This is normal. In the water they will tighten.

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9- Slide transom down in front of bladder as shown. You may have to push one of the sides of the hull out a little bit. There are 2 predrilled holes on each side of hull. Line up top hole of side of transom with top hole on the side of hull.

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10- Place a stainless steel washer on the bolt. From outside of hull, insert bolt through top hole. Place another washer and wingnut from the inside of hull. Don’t tighten too much, yet. Repeat on other top side. Now, place a washer and rubber grommet on bolt for lower hole.The rubber grommet (not the stainless steel washer) must press against the hull to act as a gasket. Repeat on other side. Now  hand tighten all wingnuts.

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11- Place optional bow bladder on bow as shown. Remove covers from both tapes. Install the optional bowcap by carefully placing it over the bow bladder so it also covers the end of the tubes (see picture). Press the 2 pieces together so the bowcap adheres to the tapes on the bow bladder. Let cure for a few hours for a permanent installation.

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Stretch bungee cords and insert each hook into hole. If no hole, drill a 1/4″ hole. 
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Never stand on bowcap or seats when entering or leaving the boat.

12- Boat shown fully assembled (no bowcap). Motor mount is in the “down”position overlapping plastic bladder.

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13- Important Information…. Read Very Carefully.

A-To easily remove seats (after removing pins hold on to end of seat nearest you. Pull this side of the hull out. This will release pressure on the seat bracket and the seat will just “pop” out.

B- When closing boat, walk on the hull if a side gets “stuck”. You won’t damage it.

C- When car topping, use the two grommet holes in front of the hull to attach a strong line to the front auto bumper. Twist the “cartop straps” to eliminate “harmonic” wind noise. Rear of boat should be facing rear of car for the least wind resistance. 15- The circular indentation on each side of each seat is for storing a beverage can or cup.

14- Never try to lift a seat sideways by pulling on the seat supports.

15- Do not stand on the seats or bowcap when entering or leaving any boat. Too easy to slip and get injured!

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VERY IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS AND VALUABLE INFORMATION – READ NOW

1- SEAT SUPPORTS: Make sure each seat support is firmly aligned over the seam of the hull before sitting on any seat. Never sit or stand on the optional “bow dress cap”.

2- SEATING BALANCE: Always SIT on the rear seat when installing or starting outboard. Never stand in the area between the rear seat and the transom during motor installation. Keep your boat properly balanced at all times. Only one person may sit on the seat nearest the outboard while it is being installed or started. Otherwise you could lose your balance. Always sit in the center of any seat for better balance.

2a- . ROWING: When one person is rowing in the “2 seat model”, sit on the rear seat for better balance.

IMPORTANT- PASSENGER SEATING ARRANGEMENT – PLEASE READ CAREFULLY

A- When 3 people are seated in a “3/4 seat model” – Only one person should sit on each seat for best performance and stability except in rough seas Then, two people should sit on the center seat.

B- When 2 people are seated in a “3/4 seat model” – One person should sit on rear seat and one person on center seat

C- Maximum Person Weight Per Seat: 300 lbs. (137Kgs) – Otherwise you will have to modify seat for the extra weight.

D- NEVER REMOVE ANY SEAT WHEN AFLOAT IN THE BOAT. THEY ACT AS STABILIZERS.

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U.S. Coast Guard Suggested Maximum Capacity Specifications 
+ MANUFACTURER’S OUTBOARD ENGINE MAX WEIGHT LIMIT

14′ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 5 persons, 807 lbs. (367 kg) Max Engine Weight: 83 lbs. (38kgs)

12′ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 4 persons, 670 lbs. (305 kg) Max Engine Weight: 54 lbs. (24kgs)

10′ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 3 persons, 585 Ibs. (266 kg) Max Engine Weight: 54 lbs. (24kgs)

8′ Max Capacity – Persons, Motor, Gear: 3 persons. 445 Ibs. (202 kg) Max Engine Weight: 35 lbs. (16kgs)


3-. MAINTENANCE: Your Porta-Bote’s copolymer polypropylene hull is not adversely affected by salt water. It will come clean with soap (Bon Ami) and water. At least once a month during the season, apply “Armorall” or similar plastic protectant to the outer sides and bottom (the part that touches the water) of the hull and tubing and plastic seats and transom. If boating in salt water, always rinse all metal fittings with fresh water. If your boat will be stored so it Is constantly exposed week after week to the UV rays of the sun, protect it with a suitable light covered tarp or cover.

3a-. DON’T continuously drag your boat over sand or gravel. Over the years, it will eventually wear the hull material.

4- GAS OUTBOARD INSTALLATION: The outboard must be installed so that the shaft is at least one inch away from the rear edge of the hull bottom. The engine shaft shouldn’t be allowed to touch the edge of the hull.

RECOMMENDED SHAFT LENGTH: 15 inches – “SHORT SHAFT” FOR BEST PERFORMANCE

4a- Always secure your outboard to the rear seat with a safety chain or bicycle chain to prevent it from accidentally slipping off if the motor clamps should loosen due to vibration. You may drill a hole in this seat to attach a chain. Check the tightness of the 4 transom/motor mount wing nuts at regular intervals.

4b- Disregard the 2 pre-drilled holes in the motormout. They are to be used when attaching the “sail rudder”.

5- ELECTRIC OUTBOARD RECOMMENDATIONS: Porta-Bote will accept ANY SIZE ELECTRIC OUTBOARD when it is installed on the rear Transom/Motormount. If installing an electric motor on the optional front Bow Trolling Mount, maximum power is “30 pound thrust”. Minimum shaft length – 30″ or longer.

6- “FLEXING”: when you step on the “floor” of your boat, you will notice a certain amount of flexing in the “floor’. This is normal. Also, when the hull begins to “plane”, the sides will flex out and the floor bottom will flex “down”. This, too, is normal. This “flexing action” actually absorbs and cushions much of the impact of strong waves that might capsize an ordinary rigid hulled craft. The transom will flex, also. However, if one or both of the sides of the hull begin to flex or deform “abnormally”, you are traveling beyond the “MAXIMUM SPEED CAPABILITY” of the hull. Immediately reduce engine rpm. This flexing will stop and you will find you are traveling at almost the same speed, comfortably. (NOTE: No matter how large an outboard you install, your Porta-Bote hull cannot go any faster than its “MAXIMUM HULL SPEED”. It will just start to flex abnormally.) Never try to make a sudden “sharp turn” when traveling at high speeds in this or any boat.

7- READ CAREFULLY: If an accident occurs and your boat should fill with water, immediately shut oft the outboard. Evacuate and hang on to the boat It will remain afloat Never go out in any boat unless each occupant is wearing a Coast Guard approved life vest and you have plenty of line (rope).

8- WATER IN SEAMS? After a short period of time, you may notice some water in the seams. This is probably the result of spray from waves or the outboard propeller or rowing action, condensation, etc. To check this out, come to a complete stop. Take an absorbent towel or sponge and dry the wet area. Wait one or two minutes. If this area remains dry, your hull doesn’t leak. Also, the foam gasket seal located at the bottom of the membrane will absorb a small amount of water which has come in from outside sources. When the hull flexes, this water will “squeeze out” and appear at the bottom of the hull near the transom. This is normal.

9- SCRATCHES/GOUGES. Porta-Bote’s engineered resin hull is remarkably tough. Extremely difficult to puncture by accident. But…it does scratch and gouge easily. This is normal and does not weaken this incredible material.

10- THEFT! Always secure your boat to a permanent “immoveable” object when leaving it unattended. Use the bow grommet holes to attach a bicycle wire/chain. Its obvious portability makes it a tempting object for thieves.